Window removal and channel replacement

Grand Banks is famous for the large windows that let in lots of light and air. However, those windows run on stainless steel channels that eventually become damaged or worn beyond repair. This post shows how the windows may be removed and glass channels replaced.

On my 42 classic there are 12 windows that open and due to the channels being clogged several did not open/close well. So here goes....

Step 1 - expose the bungs that hold the outer frames on

The outside wood frames are all that holds the windows and window channels in place, so no need to remove anything inside (note: I did remove the screens and curtains in order to clean and repaint the inside of the window frames).

The first step was to sand off the paint to expose the bungs. For this window in the aft cabin, there were 3 on each side. These patterns change for each, but one thing to remember is the bottom has two drain channels so the left and right bottom screws are not on the corner.

Step 2 Remove the sealant from the outer frame

This step may be done after the screw removal, your choice. I removed the remaining paint that was across the frame and side using a Teak Decking sanding tool (i used this tool to replace the deck caulk) but anything that removes a small amount of paint.

Under that paint I found sealant and used another tool from Teak Decking Systems to claw it out:

 

Step 3 Expose and remove the screws

This is when it starts getting rather interesting...I used a 3/8 inch drill with a center punch that makes it easier to drill the center:

Once drilled the screw will be covered with wood and this is not always so easy to remove to access the screw head:

 

so i used a 3/8 or 5/16 inch router bit and hand turned it inside the hole to expose the screw head (i used a Vice Grip to hold the bit):

I used a 1/16 inch drill bit and hand cleaned the center of the screw for a better fit with the screw driver. I also used a small standard screw driver and my trusty Buck knife to clean out the screw head.

Now the screw head is exposed and may be removed, if you are lucky. I had to use an EasyOut for 10-20% of the screws.

 

If the previous owner had glue or epoxy on top of the screw like mine did, then this becomes much more challenging (you can see the tell tale epoxy hanging off the screw below):

Step 4 Remove the wood frame

Now is the fun part, well at least this was the toughest part since i am convinced the previous owner used 5200 to glue the frames to the side....I know this because i also replaced a fixed glass window and removing that frame was very easy with a putty knife!

Note: I did use an entire bottle of Bond Breaker on the top of one window and had no effect! Thus the oscillating tool approach.

To break the seal i used an oscillating tool and flexible knife. Make sure you use a flexible and not a rigid one! I used a prying back and forth motion to kind of pry out the sealant as i went.

After going all the way around I also broke the seal on the inside of the frame:

Step 5 Remove the fixed glass

With the frame off the fixed glass may be removed first. To break this seal I used a bond breaking tool:

 From inside the boat, work around the fixed window to release it from the sealant:

In the areas that cannot be reached with this tool, use a sharp knife like a razor blade type tool. Be very careful with any putty knife, because it is easy to break the glass! Here are the pictures from outside to cur the sealant from the fixed window:

Once the outside sealant is cut go back inside and finish cutting. Before the glass is free i attached a suction handle to hold the glass and gently remove it:

 Note: i decided to replace all of the glass because the old glass became discolored or had some air intrusion. The new glass makes a big difference! That glass is 1/4 inch laminated safety glass and i used a local glass company to cut all glass for every window.

Step 6 Remove the sliding glass

The sliding glass panel is held by the channels at the top and bottom. I elected to remove the bottom channel since that was the one worn and requiring replacement. To remove there are 2-3 screws:

For some of mine i found there was a screw under the glass where i could not access it and i choose to cut the screw using my oscillating tool. Once the screws are removed, the sealant may be broken using the oscillating tool:

Step 7 Repairing the channels

You have a choice to replace the channels (which i did) or repair the existing ones if you are able to remove them without damage. I bought new channels from Defender (StanPro Sliding Window Edge Channel - Beaded). They are not expensive, but shipping 8 foot long tubes is VERY expensive (shipping was $250 for me).

If you choose to repair your channels buy some weather stripping to replace the worn ones in the channel:

Clean out the channels are insert the new weather stripping:

Step 8 Re-assembly

Now the easy part. Installing the new window glass and channels takes some sealant and patience to make sure everything lines up correctly.

For the sealant I used Pettit AnchorTech sealant to attach the channels to the fiberglass and Dolfinite to seal the frames to the sides. I used the AnchorTech sparingly because it is hard to clean up. The Dolfinite is easy to clean up, so I used it more generously. A water tight seal is critical, so extreme care is required here.

Step 9 Wine time!

Enjoy.